Bart's Cycling Scribes 霸特單車遊記: January 30, 2016: The Conquest of Southern Bohemia got this rider hammered to the bone

Garmin Activity: https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/1034382875

243km, 11h37, elevation 3596m. Trip rating: 85%

跟各位分享一些昨日長途的相片，還有詳細的故事，這個騎乘改變了我，也改變了我對於這個國家的看法。

昨天早上五點，也就是依然黑漆漆的時候，霸特出門開始從布拉格南下整個南波希米亞區。在黑暗中騎了兩個多小時。本來進度很好，可是竟然導航堅持我走E55高速公里。這一舉害我浪費快要一個小時，我也開始漸漸地有時間壓力。當導航還規劃一些越野到路，只能走路的那種，我心裡已經很清楚：我面對的是諸是不順的長途。後來還是慢慢地繼續往 Tabor 前行。那個地名可以說是半途，而且曾經去過，覺得很眼熟。

我發現爬坡不少，雖然我一直在海拔500-600間躊躇，可是在 Tabor 已經累計了2100公尺的爬坡。在那邊公路車的總公里數破15000，準備迎接兩萬吧！接下來進度比較好一點，我沒有常常停下來拍照，盡快在黑暗前完成最遠的距離。我必須承認，穿越這些遼闊的野外實在是很美麗。整個捷克南部都是丘陵。只可惜我很可憐，不只是一整天都在爬坡，還遭了強烈的逆風。爬坡加上逆風真的很辛苦！那當下我真的覺得比東進武嶺還要辛苦。至少合歡山會阻塞這些風流。

還有更嚴重的：因為導航帶我走如此的偏僻，很難找補給點。本來帶了兩個水壺再加上兩瓶水放在背包裡。可是距離一拉長，還是需要水分。在我用完水之前我已經開始找補給點，一直找不到。水用完了，還是沒有地方可以買。我撐到終點了，那當下以為我要掛了，一直爬坡，遭逆風，買不到水。沒想到整個狀態我忍耐了三個小時，七十多公里。

最後二十公里天又黑了，捷克的白天好短！在某個小村莊還有兩條夠追著我呢。會想這種事情只有在台灣發生的我好愚笨！他們追我好一陣子，一直叫！離終點站不遠處我突然看到加油站！猶如獨自穿越沙漠的我去那邊買兩平水，一飲而盡，3000cc哦！我不記得這輩子有那麼渴過！下次不會有第二次了！下不為例。

加油站就在 Kaplice村，我要去的民俗離那邊也只有幾公里，可是都是上昇路段，在幾公里我爬到海拔660。這最後一個坡讓我意識到其實我很疲憊，需要休息。那時候我發現這個民俗不愧在一個鳥不生蛋的偏僻地方。我看大概只有我會看上那種地方。民俗很好，很乾淨，很平靜，房間很大，佷便宜，比台灣還要便宜，而且還陪早餐！來到房間我立刻洗澡，準備東西，留個言就睡著了。可能是一個多月沒有騎這種騎乘的關係，可能是一天從布拉格到捷克南部那種距離根本就是頭顆壞掉，無論如何我可以很驕傲地說我騎到爆了，我裝腔了，我過的很辛苦，可是最終我還是勝利了！這就是霸特一律的作風：吃虧無所謂，只要撐過去就OK了！報告完畢！

This was the first time since weeks that I was able to set foot outside for a cycling trip. The roads had been frosty and icy for many weekends. However, the last week things took a turn for the better. It had been six degrees during daytime and the roads were no longer slippery. So I planned a nice cycling trip: I would cycle all the way to Kaplice in Southern Bohemia and spend the night there. I would go to the Austrian border and cycle back the next day.

I did what I could to prepare for the trip. wash my bike descently, go to bed early on Friday and wake up at 4 am, so I could start cycling by 5 am. All of that went according to plan. I felt it was less cold outside as I began cycling. For the first that many miles, I took the roads I am always sent by, basically going to the south east of Prague, avoiding the city center. I spent two hours cycling in the dark.

At some point I was led through an offroad track, but I did not go in there, I found another way around it, which was through a tiny forest. It gave me the creeps at that time of the day. I did get this lovely view as a reward.

It was still super dark and I had almost been cycling for two hours. I can't wait until that clock is set forward an hour in the end of March.

Rise and shine is what they say, right?

Similar snapshot a few hundred meters further. I was fascinated by this orange glow in the morning

There was a very steep descent with some deformed parts of concrete. I nearly hit the asphalt there. That was a creepy section right there!

At the end of this little path, I could see the city lights. I was close to Ricany in the south of Prague.

Then something bizarre happened: my GPS kept suggesting me that I took the E55 highway. At first, I thought it was a cycling path that ran next to it. I even went on the drive on until I realized it was a freeway for sure. Then I turned back and started looking for my own route.

I made a circle because that GPS kept indicating that E55. It was only after harsh ignoring it that I could find another way. Why in earth would my GPS send me over a freeway if I select road bike mode?

Between all those frustrations and loss of time, I did see a beautiful sunrise over the fields of Czechia.

I find it hard to take pictures like this in a good perspective. This is clearly one of the cases where a picture always looses from the actual view.

I stopped here for checking my map. I went to the end of this street and took a right there. An ascent followed after that.

The next setback: I was sent through an offroad trail. It was impossible for me to cycle here, so I had to walk. It was only one km, but that still cost enough time.

Would have been nice on my MTB. All of this did cause me to lose valuable time.

It got even worse here. I carried my bike and walked next to that mud. However, when I started to cycle a bit further, my front wheel got so dirty that I needed to take out the wheel to clean it.

It is safe to say that the time interval between seven and eight am was a complete disaster for my trip. It meant that I would have to cancel the idea of going to the Austrian border. That would be something for a future ride...

Finally, my misery was over. There was good paved road ahead of me and I could continue my journey.

I came by this castle like restaurant hotel thing

The EU flag and the Czech flag

Route 113, this is where a nice climb began. This climb went all the way to elevation 500m.

A spectacular sight right there where the elevation passed the 500 meters mark.

The climb was not over though...

I was glad that I could be outside for a long ride

Then I began plowing through a lot of tiny villages. Here I saw a grave tomb I think was dedicated to victims of the world war.

For someone who is not familiar with this area, this map is useless. I was going all the way south.

A multitude of villages, vesnice in Czech, crossed my path. I noticed there were a lot of little stones everywhere.

Impressive old buildings, there are quite a lot nineteenth century buildings all over the Czech republic.

The rhythm of my ride was composed of tiny villages and long stretches of vast wastelands between them. I did not see any big city here.

I had a big bowl of Muesli at 4:30 which kept me going for a few hours. But after more than four hours of cycling it was time for a snack. These bars are great for long rides.

More super old buildings @ Cenovice

I believe that most people would hate roads like these and that's why they avoid them. For me, these tranquil tiny roads offer me a perfect training ground that is not ruined by heavy traffic. And they put you in direct contact with the beautiful environment, something that is more difficult from a train of freeway perspective.

Did I just say tiny villages and wide openness? I forgot to mention the third factor: occasional forests

The Czech republic offers cyclists every reason to use 28mm tires.

Meanwhile I had understood from the place names on the signs that I was heading for Tabor. When I thought of that, I knew that it would be a very long ride today. Tabor was only the half way point, and I knew that Southern Bohemia is very hilly. Therefore, I decided to keep low on pictures and make as much progress as I could before it got dark again.

You have to agree that these panoramas are charming...

God damned! I was sent through another one of these annoying offroad tracks. I had to walk through here, which caused me a lot of time. I was starting to get worried that I would not even be able to make it to Kaplice before 7 pm.

When I came out of this part, I checked my GPS settings and I noticed that freeways and offroad paths have not been selected as to be avoided items. That explains!!!! I dunno how that was possible but I changed it right away. At least for the reminder of the route there would be no more shit like this.

Indeed, I was now only sent over paved roads, Halleluiah! I started to make progress and quickly after that I officially entered in Southern Bohemia, the region full of hills, called Jihocesky Kraj in Czech.

Okres Tabor, I was near the half way point of the day. Elevation was already impressive, with 2000 m already. Here I started guessing that 3000 m could well be possible.

15,000 KM on my Roubaix! Now that was a number to enjoy. But honestly, this frame only has 5k on it. When my previous frame cracked after 10K in Taiwan, I was sent a new one. This new frame has now already done 5000 km. Next big goal: 20,000 KM. And that is possible within 2016!

The vast openness of Southern Bohemia... Don't be fooled by the camera's perspective: this area is very hilly! For riders without a good solid physique, do not come here! Especially if you are cycling from Prague!

Tabor appeared in front of me. I had passed the half way point for today...

However, I still had quite some distance planned and the sun was already setting.

Praha Vienna greenways, a series of cycling paths between the two areas.

Tabor, I did a ride here in December 2015, but that day I saw another face of the same city.

Right after Tabor, there were some serious climbs. The elevation was rising a lot. Height was always around 500 meters.

Bartman's Conquest of South Bohemia, a noble mission for a single day's work.

In this area I was sent though some fabulous tiny roads and villages. I saw a lot of yellow signs indicating cycling paths. Sometimes the underground was not really suitable for road bikes, but I managed.

I stopped here for a quick snack. I started to worry about my drinks. I had been looking for a potraviny or gas station but I could not find a single thing. I still had some water now, but I needed to buy some fast.

South Bohemia, hills, fields, forests and many more...

Whenever there is a 12% sign, it's because it's true!

That also applied to uphill sections

Tabor was already 60km behind me and Ceske Budejovice was drawing near. I saw a potraviny in this street but it was closed. It was next to impossible to find a place where I could buy water.

I was sent through the city of Ceske Budejovice. Typical for every Czech city: cobbles and old buildings. I could see LINZ in Austria indicated on the street signs. That was when I felt far away from home.

Actually I could have bought something to drink in the city, but I hate leaving my bike unattended. I might do it in a small village, but never in a bigger town. So I did not get a drink here.

From Ceske Budejovice, there was a longer stretch of ten km that was relatively flat. A good chance to make some miles before darkness kicks in.

I wanted to be under the 30km line before darkness and right now, that seemed possible.

These cute little field roads kept coming, each of them presenting me an opportunity to enhance my total ascent. By now, I had already crossed the 3000m mark. I was close to the amount of Wuling, 3275m.

It was already five pm, it would be pitch dark soon now.

I wanted to make sure I left these field roads when light was gone.

By now I had already cycled more than 200km and 3000m. Numbers were great, but I was not there yet!

Sunset in Southern Czechia. I still did not find a place to buy a drink. My drinks were gone. I had nothing left

In a small village I was chased by two dogs. Suddenly I felt like I was in Taiwan again. I was going uphill and these dogs chased me for a few minutes. I tried yelling at them but it did not stop them. They only stopped when I officially left their territory.

I stopped here to turn on my lights. It was really dark now. It was 5:30 pm. I noticed that the days were getting a bit longer, but still not long enough for monster rides like these. I had fifteen km more to go from here to Kaplice and then a few to Hradiste.

And then it really was dark. I still had more climbing to do. Man I was thirsty! Kaplice felt like the other side of the world by now.

I saw another indication to E55, my GPS just would not give up. Luckily I found a way around it by using the map.

Regardless of all the hardship I endured, I was living a fabulous day. I have seen thousands of beautiful panorama's. Even this sunset is gorgeous. I learned that Southern Bohemia is really beautiful.

I made it to Kaplice!!! Before arriving at this sign, I stopped at a gas station. I bought two big bottles of water and a few sandwiches. I was not sure if there would be food in that tiny hostel. It was already past six pm.

Night view of a church. In Kaplice I used my GPS to find the nearby town of Hradiste. It was only five km, but it was a very long climb, all the way to elevation 650. It was a tiny road and it was completely dark. I was thinking, what the hell are you doing here!

When I arrived in Hradiste, I did not find the hostel at once. I knocked at someone's door and asked in basic Czech where the pension was. That's how I found it. I was finally there!